December 21, 2020
Skilled work is not cheap, cheap work is not skilled

Here in the UK there is a sea change happening as the makers, artisans and artists are talking about the equation of financial expectations versus skills and expertise.

Skilled work is not cheap, cheap work is not skilled

"Skilled work is not cheap, cheap work is not skilled." Have you ever heard that before?

I agree with that statement to a certain extent but I think it is more subtle than this simplistic narrative implies. (Maybe sometimes the price is cheap because the skilled person is underpaid. This can be true in a notoriously underpaid profession such as fashion and especially as so much clothing is made abroad in very poor countries and communities. The growth of fast fashion, and therefore the need for it to be cheap fashion, has been a massive pressure that ends up with the makers, who I think are skilled workers, being underpaid.) Here in the UK there is a sea change happening as the makers, artisans and artists are talking about the equation of financial expectations versus skills and expertise. The wider the discussion and the greater the understanding in our society, the sooner it will filter down to those factories abroad and the very poorly paid.

So, with that caveat in place, the sentiment still stands. Skilled work is not cheap, cheap work is not skilled. The thought is like this - If I do a job in 30 minutes, it’s because I have spent 30 years learning how to do that in 30 minutes. Payment is for the years and experience, not just the minutes to do the job.

So when you buy an Andrea M Franklin garment, for what are you paying?

Importantly for the highest quality materials used, made by British weavers, high quality notions (the zips, buttons, ribbons, thread etc) and also for:

  • Knowledge
  • Experience
  • Study and education
  • Tools and machinery
  • Services
  • Maintaining a creative space and workroom
  • Time
  • Creativity and passion
  • Choice
  • Ability to connect with my client when creating for them, synergy
  • Punctuality and steadiness
  • Accountability
  • Professionalism
  • Accuracy
  • Fine design
  • Interesting cut
  • 30 years of working with different body shapes
  • Guaranteed workmanship
  • Attention to detail
  • Striving for perfection
  • Patterns/blocks and the time, thought, effort, research and development that has gone into them
  • Payment of all obligations

The list goes on but you get the drift.

Of course I love what I do and I can’t imagine doing anything else, but after all the paraphernalia of a working studio is paid for, a living wage is still necessary. We are not like the big named designers in the widely promoted fashion world. They make much of their income from perfume or makeup or other products. We makers are really a very different kettle of fish. We don’t have those revenue avenues to support us and we do rely on being paid for what we do, not to have second homes and a jet set lifestyle but a modest income. Also for many of us it isn’t a hobby business running alongside a ‘proper’ job. This is it, our only income stream. So that is why the price tag is as it is. When one considers what one gets then it seems reasonable, especially if the garment is considered an investment to be worn for many years to come.

One of my fabric suppliers said ‘keep up the works of art, you are a very skilled person, I hope your customers appreciate you.” I can safely say that they do and for this I am very grateful. So to my previous clients, thank you and I hope to see you soon, and to all those thinking about having a garment made, thank you in anticipation and I look forward to meeting and working with you.

Andrea M Franklin

Andrea Franklin

Clothing Designer
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